Since my daughter started school, every 1st of March morning has been spent tying apron strings, fixing on a cardboard top hat and fastening a shawl ready for St Davids Day celebrations. But where did this fashion come from and how has it affected history?
What is Tradition Welsh Dress?
Thought to have its origins in 17th/18th century, it became very popular in the early/ mid parts of the 19th century when increased tourism highlighted its uniqueness. The base parts of the costume is not disimilar from any other rural dress, consisting of a peticoat, bedgown that might be tucked up at the back (often made of Flannel, a traditional welsh material which offered both warmth and comfort), a kerchief around the neck and long apron, however what makes this costume unique is;
1. The Combination of prints - Spots, Checks and Stripes feature heavily in traditional welsh style. The Wool and flannel industry was booming in Wales throughout this period and offered many options for Plaids, tartans and woven patterns. It is unclear why this combination was so popular but I love it and am trying to incorperate it into my modern wardrobe.
2. The Shawl - Now, a shawl in itself is not that unusual. In cooler weather it was usually worn over the kerchief, around the neck, crossed over and tucked in the front of the apron. However what makes Welsh shawls unique is the traditional hands free way they are used to carry and nurse babies. Thats right our ancestors were all about baby wearing way before it became fashionable again now. If you visit St. fagans Musueum of Welsh life you can have a go but if you want to try at home click here for a great blog post that shows you how. My mum remembers her Nain doing it but unfortunatly when I tried with my daughter it was an epic fail so i stuck with the pushchair.
3. The Hat - the tall hat to our eyes today looks a bit odd and honestly a bit unpractical however it is thought to be the female version of the Male Top hat worn over the more traditional ladies cap. The frilled cap is not unique in itself however it was usually worn under a bonnet or more fashion ladies hat so wasnt seen so much however with the tall welsh hat balanced on the ladies head the frills became more prevelant. the hat could either be stright up or slightly narrower at the top depending on what area you where from.
4. The Red - It is unclear why red was so popular but it was usually worn on the top half of the body either in the bedgown or a cloak worn over the top. But red is just a colour like any other right?
Well, at this time the Cavalry wore red coats and tall hats and visitors to Wales often commented when passing women working in the fields that that looked like soldiers. This simple mistake was also made by the French soldiers who were to attempt the last invasion of mainland Wales.
In 1797, Napoloen was busy trying to take over europe and had his heart set on the UK. A three pronged invasion was planned with one group sent around the south west coast to invade Bristol which at that time was Britain's second city. But because Napoleans best troops were engaged elsewhere, Napolean sent around 600 regular soldiers with a further 800 irregular soldiers made up of royalist prisoners, convicts, deserters and republicans. Due to bad weather the french soldiers landed firther up the coast than expected. Nearly immediatly the irregular soldiers abandoned the mission choosing instead to loot nearby villages and get drunk. Taking very little ground the remaining French troops were confronted with 1000's of Cavalry soldiers, it was later recounted. However there was not a militia stationed anywhere near by. What had apparently happened was the local Welsh forces had bulstered their numbers (around 500 reservists) by positioning red coated welsh women with pitchforks at the back of their men to make it look like the French were outnumbered.
One Welsh woman who made a name for herself that day was Jemima Nicholas who lead a group of women in making a citizens arrest of 12 drunken French soldiers, by locking them in a church and guarding it with pitchforks until officials arrived. What a woman! And a good lesson for all. Never underestimate a Welsh woman, especially when she is wielding a pitch fork!
Another Traditional dress icon is in the painting titled 'Salem' by Sydney Vosper painted in 1908. the painting features Sian Owen exiting Capel Salem in Pentre Gwynfryn, Gwynnedd wearing traditonal welsh dress. The painting was very popular not only because of the quality and subject but because there is supposed to be the devil hiding in the ladies shawl. Vosper never confirmed if this was done on purpose but it is there. I had a print of this up in my family home for years and could never see the devil. I would look for Hours! Anyway, recently I looked again and it is so obvious, I have even based some designs on its shape.
But I wont point it out. Let me know if you can see it too?
Unfortunatly as with all fashion, this traditonal welsh dress went out of regular wear around the 1870s and was only saved for special occasions. As photography, tourism and growing welsh nationalism grew in popularity so did traditional welsh dress come to represent the Welsh brand which can still be seen today.
What do you think about Welsh Dress? Do you have any other interesting stories about it? let me know!
Sources
Wikipedia
Google images
Comments